The Country that Doesn't Exist

There was so much to grok, so little to grok from.

Valentine Michael Smith

If you’ve never heard of the country of Trans-Dniester, you can probably be forgiven in that on a technical level, said country doesn’t actually exist. The border guards have a different story, however, and semantic arguments such as “No, you don’t need to see my passport because your country is imaginary and lacks international recognition,” appear to have little weight with them.


Trans-Dniester (or Transnistria, or Transdniestria, or Stanga Nistrului, or the Pridnestrovian Moldavian Soviet Socialist Republic, or the PMR), is a strip of land between the eastern border of Moldova and the river Dniester. Ethnic Moldovia never laid claim to the region—during World War II is was considered a buffer zone with bordering Ukraine. During the collapse of the Soviet Union, many ethnic Russians and Ukrainians in Moldova retreated to Trans-Dniester fearing Romanian reunification. A brief conflict erupted, but as that Moldova lacked a formal military, and Trans-Dniester was backed by the Soviet 14th Army, the outcome was never really in doubt.


A visit to Tiraspol (…which would be Moldova’s second largest city, were in not the capital of a non-existent country…) feels much like a visit to Russia, with perhaps a thicker Soviet vibe. The western alphabet is virtually non-existent here, and the hammer and sickle is often-present (though subtle) in the iconography of the city.


A statue of Tsarist General Alexander Suvarov, founder of Tiraspol, graces the main thoroughfare.


Trans-Dniester has its own currency, customs agents, president, foreign policy and all of the trappings of a functioning government. Though there exist here certain ubiquitous facets of Western culture, this is probably as close as one can come to experiencing the old Soviet Union in modern times. For a country which is not officially recognized by any member of the United Nations, Trans-Dniester seems certain of its existence, even to the extent of these billboards: one recognizing the anniversary of the Soviet and independent government, and the other recognizing Trans-Dniester’s close (though, of course, unofficial ties with Moscow).


If you’re wondering, that’s Russian President Dmitry Medvedev and Trans-Dniester’s current and only president Igor Smirnov there in front of the Disneyland Moscow backdrop.
"Igor! I do not like this one. Put back the Bora Bora!"
"Nyet! Nyet! It must be Moscow!"

Here is yet another beautiful Orthodox Cathedral. Every town here seems to have one.

Unlike elsewhere in the world, people seem to be working in Trans-Dniester and Moldova. Unlike the eerily silent construction cranes of Dubai, building projects here continue, including this complete gutting and replacement of the town square.

Probably better not to ask where the money is coming from. While Trans-Dniester is extremely proud of its Kvint brandy, it is also known for its organized crime which likely accounts for much of the region's wealthy elite. Ironically, while Igor Smirnov claims that it is his life's work to have the country recognized by the UN, it is the region's (alleged) reputation as a base for trafficking Moldovan women and surplus Russian military hardware that is the major obstacle.


Next time. Changing the Bogies, Part Deux.